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Alignment Results: M3 bits + Strut Pin Removal
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08-25-2012, 03:49 PM | #1 |
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Alignment Results: M3 bits + Strut Pin Removal
Hi guys,
I recently had the M3 front arms installed (wishbone links, tension rods). At the same time, I decided to remove my alignment pin to maximize gains in negative camber (still on OEM shocks/springs). I asked my tech to push in the struts to the inside as much as possible and towards the front of the car. Check out the results. I gained maybe -0.1-0.2 from removing the pin. However, to my surprise, I managed to gain ~0.5 degree of caster (assuming stock is at 7.5 deg) . Also, I'm not sure why the report indicates the caster increased after the alignment since, he only adjusted toe up front. Equipment variance? Anybody else been able to run this much caster on a stock setup? Either way, I'm happy since it helps in high speed stability. In the rear, I had installed Megan Racing adjustable toe arms. However, the tech only needed to adjust the bolt to get the toe values to where they are. Overall, I think the numbers look good. |
08-25-2012, 09:50 PM | #2 |
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Overall looks fine. Camber looks good. I no longer know the standard toe alignment specs for toe; I run just a tad in the rear and zero up front. Yours shouldn't cause more than normal wear.
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08-25-2012, 11:55 PM | #3 |
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I have the same setup as you: M3 control arms and tension rods and no alignment pin. The alignment shop maxed out the camber to -1.4 front and -2.5 rear.
You should be able to get -1.5 on the front.
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08-26-2012, 12:14 AM | #4 |
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My research indicated that if you increase camber and have toe in set in the higher ranges, there will be increased wear as the tires are "dragged" when going straight. When I increased camber front and back after lowering, I had the toe alignment set closer to M3 minimum specifications.
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08-26-2012, 03:53 PM | #5 |
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Yeah, I asked them to set the toe closest to the default nominal. Do you keep your toe settings near zero to minimize wear?
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08-26-2012, 03:54 PM | #6 | |
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08-26-2012, 03:57 PM | #7 |
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Yeah, that's what I was aiming for. It may just be the technique used to push the strut inwards. I may play with it more later on.
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08-26-2012, 08:07 PM | #8 |
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Yes, zero toe in the front with just a touch of toe-in in the rear.
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08-26-2012, 09:58 PM | #9 |
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I saw a chart for a 2008 M3 that specified minimums of .03 degrees for the front and not more than .10, and .10 to .20 for the rears, but cannot vouch for its accuracy. You may want to try asking the dealer for 335i and M3 specifications.
O degrees front is probably OK if you are willing to tolerate some wandering on long straights on the freeway - I requested .04 on each front wheel. More toe appears to be needed on the rears for safety reasons - straight line stability and possibly predictability in cornering. I specified .07 for each wheel. |
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08-26-2012, 10:56 PM | #10 |
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08-27-2012, 01:45 PM | #11 |
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Alignment targets suggested by Harold at HP Autowerks
Front toe 1/16" in total Camber as much as you can, but not more than -1.5 for street use Rear toe 3/16" in Rear camber - From: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513544
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08-30-2012, 06:49 AM | #12 | |
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08-30-2012, 06:52 AM | #13 |
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Anyone running over 8 degrees caster on a stock sport suspension?
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08-30-2012, 08:14 AM | #15 |
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08-31-2012, 07:33 AM | #17 |
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08-31-2012, 08:30 AM | #18 |
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