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68 Miles of pure Wow!





This was Day 33 of a 35 day trans-continental journey that took us to both North American coasts. After 2,000 miles of seemingly endless, flat corn fields and cattle ranches that started on Day 26 departing from Pittsburg, we finally hit a sweet spot back in the mountains of the American West. Don't get me wrong, we loved seeing the heart of the country (twice), but there is something about travelling through a landscape that has it's gradations measured in thousands of feet, instead of just yards.

I'll probably do a transcontinental thread, but this 120 mile, seven hour segment, warrants it's own special feature. Obviously not quite up there with mjn77 and dutchm2 current threads with their 38 Swiss Alp passes, but this one pass is good, nonetheless.

Day 33 Route. Beartooth Highway is between the red dots.


Eastern Montana was the route back after exiting North Dakota. I wanted to drop into Yellowstone and do a surgical strike at Artist Point, which overlooks the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and also the spectacular Lower Yellowstone Falls. Somehow in all my trips there (7), I seemed to have missed this particular viewpoint. The plan was to drop down out of Montana just below Billings, turn west at Cody on Hwy 14, enter the park at through the East Entrance and then up to Artist Point. Then we saw that the Beartooth Highway had just opened, so, giddy-up. Charles Kuralt once called the Beartooth Highway "...the most beautiful roadway in America." This new route would also vastly shorten the distance for the day and increase our transit enjoyment.

The route from Red Lodge, MT to Artist Point, Yellowstone NP




While I don't totally agree with Mr. Kuralt's assessment, I don't disagree. This is truly a splendid road. It was our 2nd time, having previously traversed it back in the fall of 2023. This time, since it had just opened, there was a lot of snow, giving the whole route a different kind of feel. The road was packed - but there were no traffic jams. There are lots of turnouts.

The Beartooth Highway. It's only 68 miles. The high point is reached at the pink dot. Technically, from Red Lodge to the NE Entrance of Yellowstone National Park.


The quaint little town of Red Lodge is the Eastern portal and the start of the Beartooth Highway. Lot of shops and restaurants.


First up is securing a large selection of saltwater taffy at the Montana Candy Emporium. Best I've ever had.


Lots of bins and lots of memorabilia in there, too.




It all starts just a few miles out of town. Time to get after it.




The switchbacks start immediately and the first turn out is really nice.




The road ascends very quickly through the switchbacks - you will gain 5,000 feet in only 12 miles.




A red C8 scoots by




More switchbacks


I dunno..........seems likes there's some rockfall potential


The view expands as you climb higher




Where we're headed


There's a fabulous view and a large parking lot at the Rock Creek Vista Point - Elev. 9.190 feet


What a view


A trail goes out to an observation point, where hundreds of scavengers are waiting.


The patient and good natured wifey/passenger


Carbon Black Metallic M850, from 2023 trip. What a car that was.


There's still nearly 1,800 vertical feet to the summit, so let's get going


Looking down on the Rock Creek Vista Point


What a glorious road






A lull in the traffic.






We reach a high plateau. The trees are gone. The view is stupendous.












The view down below opens up to several lakes, trying to throw off the cold frozen yoke of winter.






Still climbing to an even higher plateau




We pass the Beartooth Summer Ski Basin. The smallish lot is crammed with cars. Nine runs, 2 poma chairs and one headwall of undetermined height.

Then on to one last plateau where skiers are schussing down couloirs and being snowmobiled back to the top.




A couple more S-turns through the snow


Then - Boom...........summit time - 10,947 feet. Not a tree in sight.


The landscape changes dramatically as we wind down the west side of the pass. The trees quickly come back and the whole area is dotted with lakes trying to scrape off their winter ice coverings.






The road flattens out and we reach Long Lake for some nice shots












Did I mention that San Remo Green Metallic is a fabulous color?

Soon, the forest returns. Waterfalls dot the sides of the hills.


Yellowstone Overlook brings Pilot Peak and Index Peak into view. Pilot Peak (the pointy one) rises to 11,699 feet and Index Peak, to the right, comes in at 10,709 feet.






Lake Creek Falls is a rushing torrent






Another view of Pilot Peak


A little further is Crazy Creek Falls. There doesn't particularly seem to be a dedicated stream bed. It just comes tumbling down the mountain.


Everything is sooooo green.


We continue winding our way down through the lush landscape. Eventually we reach Cooke City - the first major signs of civilization in awhile. It's a bit of a threadbare town in need of some sprucing up, but it's jammed with people looking for gas, snacks, lunches and souvenirs. They probably only have 4 months to make all their annual income, because the pass to Red Lodge is closed most of the year.

A few miles on gets us through the NE Entrance to Yellowstone. The wait time was zero cars and one compliment on the San Remo.

This is where the buffalo roam (see the tiny specks off to the right?). It's also not very geysery in this part of the park.


At Tower Junction we turn left and the road ascends into the verdant landscape as we head toward Canyon Village and the waterfalls. The traffic increases tenfold. It's busy here.


The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is one of the busiest spots in the park. The Yellowstone River has cut a deep canyon here and added two spectacular waterfalls. It doesn't look totally crazy here, people-wise, so we take the north rim road and are not disappointed by the views at Lookout Point of the Lower Falls - just over 300 feet high.


The canyon is 24 miles long, with walls of 800 to 1,200 feet deep.




A nice hike descends down 600 feet to the Brink of the Lower Falls - it's quite spectacular. You can just see the viewpoint with the people, on the right side, at the top of the falls - if you look close enough.


The road loops us back out to Canyon Village and we check out the lodge.




We head over to the other side of the river and reach Artist Point. Its a little further away from the falls, but there is more of a view of the canyon. The yellows, oranges and reds are quite vivid. Really something.






Then its back over to the north side again for a quick hike to the Brink of the Upper Falls. The river is really hauling ass through here.






It took 7 hours to go the last 120 miles - or you could have gone 500 miles on I-90 through Montana. I'll take this any day of the week.

Our Yellowstone surgical strike now completed, we head west out of Canyon Village on the Norris Canyon Road to meet up with Hwy 89 that will take us north to Mammoth Hot Springs. We explored the Springs a couple years ago and we head for the final target: The North Entrance to Yellowstone National Park - the only entrance we'd never been through. It lies in the city of Gardiner, MT - just 5 miles away down a very steep descent.

The significance of the North Entrance is that the trains dropped tourists off here and then they rode horse drawn carriages into the park. It was the first major entrance to Yellowstone. A stone arch was proposed to create an emphatic statement that the park is kind of a big deal. President Roosevelt came through in 1903, just as construction began. He helped lay the cornerstone for the arch, which then took his name.




The top of the arch is inscribed with a quote from the Organic Act of 1872, the legislation that created Yellowstone National Park - the first national park in the US - and the world.


Although it's not the main access point of the entrance anymore, you can still drive through it.


We put Yellowstone into our rearview mirror once again and head north toward Belgrade, MT - night 33 - with 10,073 miles on the trip odmeter......so far.


Even though we have left a national park, Montana doesn't shy away from being awesome - as the wife shows by snapping a picture out her window. Only 819 miles to go - we'll be back home in just 2 more days.


Hope you enjoyed our little 120 mile detour. Thanks for tagging along.

[Josh-PA]

Awesome. Thanks for sharing. I've done that drive in crappy rental cars a couple of times. It is truly breathtaking and Yellowstone is my favorite place on earth.

Is your 8er San Remo Green? Looks great too

[snowbimmer]

Originally Posted by Josh-PA

Awesome. Thanks for sharing. I've done that drive in crappy rental cars a couple of times. It is truly breathtaking and Yellowstone is my favorite place on earth.

Is your 8er San Remo Green? Looks great too

There's a reason Yellowstone became a national park over 150 years ago.

Yes, San Remo Green. I had edited it in, just as you were responding. Good eye.

[T.R.S.]

The pictures do a really good job of capturing the beauty. Oh, and the scenery is nice too

Been many years ago now since I drove the Beartooth Highway but it's still one of the most spectacular drives I've ever taken. Just something about being so far above the alpine tree line and looking out below across that vast rugged wilderness.

[mjn77]

Awesome!!!!

Maybe when i'm retired, i'll ship the M3 over to the US for 3 months and explore.

And 10,947 feet (3337 metres)?

Don't think i've been that high! Don't even think i've been above 3000 metres!

[dutchm2]

That’s incredible! I’ve actually been to the US twice. The first time, I did a road trip from New York down to Washington, then up through Niagara Falls, passing through Toronto, Ottawa, and Montreal, before heading back via Boston—an unforgettable experience! I wasn’t behind the wheel of a BMW though, it was a Chrysler if I remember right.

The second trip was to Hawaii—Oahu, Kauai, and Maui. We drove the Road to Hana in a stunning Jeep, and it was absolutely spectacular. Doing that in an M would’ve been next-level!

If I make it back to the US, I’m definitely planning to drive some of the amazing roads you’ve been posting about. Honestly, I’d love to hit the road with you someday—somewhere, somehow. Let’s make it happen!

[Llarry]

Great report! San Remo Green It looks from the photos like it must've felt like you were on the roof of the world at times. Thank you!

[snowbimmer]

Originally Posted by T.R.S.

The pictures do a really good job of capturing the beauty. Oh, and the scenery is nice too

Been many years ago now since I drove the Beartooth Highway but it's still one of the most spectacular drives I've ever taken. Just something about being so far above the alpine tree line and looking out below across that vast rugged wilderness.

Thanks. And, yeah, you are way up there.

[snowbimmer]

Originally Posted by mjn77

Awesome!!!!

Maybe when i'm retired, i'll ship the M3 over to the US for 3 months and explore.

And 10,947 feet (3337 metres)?

Don't think i've been that high! Don't even think i've been above 3000 metres!

Sounds like a good plan.

Heck, we drive to over 14,000 feet (4,302m) over here

[Efthreeoh]

Did Beartooth in 2017 in the Z3. Top down the entire way. Awesome.

[snowbimmer]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Did Beartooth in 2017 in the Z3. Top down the entire way. Awesome.

Wooo Hooo!

Nice

[snowbimmer]

Originally Posted by Llarry

Great report! San Remo Green It looks from the photos like it must've felt like you were on the roof of the world at times. Thank you!

Thanks, man. Yeah, you're up there. A lot of passes take you up and then right back down. Beartooth takes you up and then you travel several miles on a high plateau at around 10,000 feet before dropping back down.

[snowbimmer]

Originally Posted by dutchm2

That’s incredible! I’ve actually been to the US twice. The first time, I did a road trip from New York down to Washington, then up through Niagara Falls, passing through Toronto, Ottawa, and Montreal, before heading back via Boston—an unforgettable experience! I wasn’t behind the wheel of a BMW though, it was a Chrysler if I remember right.

The second trip was to Hawaii—Oahu, Kauai, and Maui. We drove the Road to Hana in a stunning Jeep, and it was absolutely spectacular. Doing that in an M would’ve been next-level!

If I make it back to the US, I’m definitely planning to drive some of the amazing roads you’ve been posting about. Honestly, I’d love to hit the road with you someday—somewhere, somehow. Let’s make it happen!

At least you saw Niagara Falls. That's a tough one to beat.

I've been to Hana a couple times. Not sure if an M would really enhance the trip. There's 630 tight turns on a crappy road with lots of cars.

You would need to do the American Mountain West. Lots to see. I don't know if I could road trip with your crew. I could never eat or drink that much. Everyone seems to eat whole pizzas!

[KevinGS]

I was at Beartooth and Yellowstone last summer, traveled from Maryland.

Beartooth Pass was an amazing road, I agree.

And we had lunch at a cute little restaurant in Red Lodge.

And in Yellowstone, I went to the Grand Tetons, Jackson Hole and Yellowstone Lake...loved it.

[dutchm2]

Originally Posted by snowbimmer

At least you saw Niagara Falls. That's a tough one to beat.

I've been to Hana a couple times. Not sure if an M would really enhance the trip. There's 630 tight turns on a crappy road with lots of cars.

You would need to do the American Mountain West. Lots to see. I don't know if I could road trip with your crew. I could never eat or drink that much. Everyone seems to eat whole pizzas!

You’re absolutely right! I usually steer clear of the pizzas and stick to local cuisine wherever I go. But yes, there are definitely plenty of drives in America still waiting to be explored!

[cbpip]

A place to visit out that way is Bear Creek Saloon in Bear Creek, MT where they have Pig races. Great steaks and when you bet on the pig races it benefits a local kids charity. Very cool place and a bunch of fun for an evening.

[snowbimmer]

Originally Posted by cbpip

A place to visit out that way is Bear Creek Saloon in Bear Creek, MT where they have Pig races. Great steaks and when you bet on the pig races it benefits a local kids charity. Very cool place and a bunch of fun for an evening.

Went through there once, but it was only about 9 o'clock in the morning. A little too early for the steaks and pig races.

[mjn77]

Originally Posted by snowbimmer

At least you saw Niagara Falls. That's a tough one to beat.

I've been to Hana a couple times. Not sure if an M would really enhance the trip. There's 630 tight turns on a crappy road with lots of cars.

You would need to do the American Mountain West. Lots to see. I don't know if I could road trip with your crew. I could never eat or drink that much. Everyone seems to eat whole pizzas!

Whole pizzas are easy!!!

And have you seen this guy on YouTube driving an old E34 across eastern europe and asia?

https://www.youtube.com/@e34xpeditions

[snowbimmer]

Originally Posted by mjn77

Whole pizzas are easy!!!

And have you seen this guy on YouTube driving an old E34 across eastern europe and asia?

https://www.youtube.com/@e34xpeditions

Holy crap.......Tajikistan!!! Mercy sakes.
And, there's people on this forum that won't drive 300 miles because they might get a flat.

[mjn77]

Originally Posted by snowbimmer

Holy crap.......Tajikistan!!! Mercy sakes.
And, there's people on this forum that won't drive 300 miles because they might get a flat.

Exactly!! And this guy is just driving, driving, driving, fixing as he goes. I believe he is near the Mongolian border in the Altai Mountains at the moment.

Altai Mountains
The Altai Mountains, also spelled Altay Mountains, are a mountain range in Central and East Asia, where Russia, China, Mongolia, and Kazakhstan converge, and where the rivers Irtysh and Ob have their headwaters. The massif merges with the Sayan Mountains in the northeast, and gradually becomes lower in the southeast, where it merges into the high plateau of the Gobi Desert.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by snowbimmer

Wooo Hooo!

Nice

Real exciting too, because the left front brake caliper started sticking about halfway down. I pulled over on a flat somewhere and backed up at about 30 MPH and slammed the brakes on. That fixed it.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by KevinGS

I was at Beartooth and Yellowstone last summer, traveled from Maryland.

Beartooth Pass was an amazing road, I agree.

And we had lunch at a cute little restaurant in Red Lodge.

And in Yellowstone, I went to the Grand Tetons, Jackson Hole and Yellowstone Lake...loved it.

On our 2017 trip we lucked into getting a room at the Lake Yellowstone Hotel. It is the oldest operating hotel in the National Park System. Just fantastic.