[adi555]

Ok so I've used the BMW brush touch up kit on my white X1 bumper. The finish is uneven and not same level as the remaining paint, can I use scratch remover to smoothen this? Any suggestion?

[00max00]

For any touch up work, you need to go slow, I mean, very slow. Very thin layer at a time, and it will likely require several applications to get it flush or a little above the rest of the paint. After that you can wet sand it down with 2000 grit, then buff with a polishing compound. A lot of work, yes, but you can get a result that is almost perfect unless you know exactly where to look.

[Beagler]

Get an aerosol spray the right colour and some cellulose stopper. Put a tiny bit of stopper in the crater. Rub it flat with 400 wet and dry, tear a small hole in a newspaper sheet or a large piece of cardboard. Hold the cardboard over the hole about 2 inch away, spray a quick squirt of paint about 3 inch from the cardboard/paper and the gap will feather the paint edges and the cardboard will mask the surrounding area. Repeat until your happy.

[MJE60]

Just be very careful, the paint is extremely thin. I tried to polish out a car park “graze” and found out the hard way way that BMW paint (on the plastic bumper at least) is not only thin but does not appear to have an undercoat layer). Anything coarser than 1000 grit can easily result in existing paint being cut back to point where black plastic starts to show. Having successfully used the same repair technique for decades on different brands of car, I came unstuck on a BMW X1!

Having learnt the hard way, I would advise being as accurate as possible applying “touch up paint” and when cutting back the excess avoiding anything coarser than 1000 grit and T-cut.

[adi555]

How do I level this? I've already applied the clear coat that comes with the kit. Should I use rubbing compound?

[Beagler]

Originally Posted by adi555

How do I level this? I've already applied the clear coat that comes with the kit. Should I use rubbing compound?

I would use 400 wet and dry and a little soap with water and rub it till its flat taking into account of the contours. I would then use the method I suggested above. You cant make it any worse and the beauty is you can rub down and start again if your not happy. You need to be sympathetic when rubbing down and not destroy any of the contour.

At the end of the day if it doesn't work out you can get it done professionally and at least you had a go.

[oakey46]

Originally Posted by MJE60

Just be very careful, the paint is extremely thin. I tried to polish out a car park “graze” and found out the hard way way that BMW paint (on the plastic bumper at least) is not only thin but does not appear to have an undercoat layer). Anything coarser than 1000 grit can easily result in existing paint being cut back to point where black plastic starts to show. Having successfully used the same repair technique for decades on different brands of car, I came unstuck on a BMW X1!

Having learnt the hard way, I would advise being as accurate as possible applying “touch up paint” and when cutting back the excess avoiding anything coarser than 1000 grit and T-cut.

From experience with my X1, I agree with what you say about the paint finish on plastic body parts.
Overall I would go so far as to say this car has probably the thinnest paint of any car I’ve owned before and it will make me think twice about buying another BMW. I haven’t experienced so many small stone chips on the bonnet/hood of any other car. Also, whilst I have a touch-in kit, I cannot find a Med Blue (code C10) spray paint kit anywhere.

[adi555]

Originally Posted by oakey46

From experience with my X1, I agree with what you say about the paint finish on plastic body parts.
Overall I would go so far as to say this car has probably the thinnest paint of any car I’ve owned before and it will make me think twice about buying another BMW. I haven’t experienced so many small stone chips on the bonnet/hood of any other car. Also, whilst I have a touch-in kit, I cannot find a Med Blue (code C10) spray paint kit anywhere.

Originally Posted by oakey46

From experience with my X1, I agree with what you say about the paint finish on plastic body parts.
Overall I would go so far as to say this car has probably the thinnest paint of any car I've owned before and it will make me think twice about buying another BMW. I haven't experienced so many small stone chips on the bonnet/hood of any other car. Also, whilst I have a touch-in kit, I cannot find a Med Blue (code C10) spray paint kit anywhere.

So I sand it with 1000 grit paper? Post sanding do I need to use any polish or clear coat?

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by adi555

So I sand it with 1000 grit paper? Post sanding do I need to use any polish or clear coat?

Hi
Firstly , I am not an expert, just someone who has done d.i.y car paint repairs for 40+ years, so this is my opinion, not gospel. As I have already said, paint on my X1 was the thinnest/poorest I have ever had the misfortune to try to fix so be ultra careful. To start, imo finishing any paintwork with a coat of wax is always a good idea.

Looking at your photo and the amount of touch up paint you have to cut-back I would suggest you carefully start with 400/600 grit otherwise it will take ages and finer grit paper usually polishes (including bumps and dips) paint rather than flattening it. The intention is to carefully remove some of the surplus paint you have added whilst touching/removing as little of the original paint as possible. I would get some tape and mask the border/edge (electrical insulating tape will do). Once you have removed most of the surplus touch up paint with 400/600 then switch to 1000/2000 grit and carefully try and get a smooth finish on the touch up area. Again, be careful with coarser grit and try not to rub into any of the original paint, it is too thin and unforgiving). Once 90% sorted with grit paper remove the edging tape and use T-cut polishing compound to improve finish further and soften the edge of the added paint. An important point to note, if whilst rubbing back the paint, you see it start to darken then stop, it will be the black plastic bumper starting to show through, there is no undercoat! If you get a satisfactory result then I personally would just polish with wax rather than go through trying to use clear-coat, the reason is explained below.

1. Most car paint is finished with a lacquer/clear coat which adds depth and lustre to the paintwork. If you have paint damage then any proper repair will require a clear-coat however for small diy scratches it depends on degree of damage and the level/quality of repair you are trying to achieve.
2. For light scratches, first check the degree of damage by cleaning area and then use a wet cloth to wipe the scratch. If the scratch disappears when wet then you are lucky because the scratch is “light” and will be confined to the clear-coat layer or at worst only a very thin part of the paint layer itself. In this case you can usually repair by carefully “polishing out” the scratch. In effect you are levelling off the damage which is confined to the top layer. Please note however that in so doing you are removing part of the protective coat. Once done you need to protect with a good wax.
3. An alternative method for light “clear-coat” scratches, but more difficult to get right, is to use clear coat touch up brush/pen only (do not use paint just clear lacquer) and once dry then polish back. You very carefully try and fill in the scratch with clear-coat/lacquer and once dry do same as 2, namely polish back until level using very fine 1000 to 3000 grit paper and T-cut/paint finishing compound. This approach has the advantage that you do not need to level/cut-back so much of the top layer in order to get a smooth level surface. Please note 2 & 3 will only work for light scratches which disappear when wet.
4. For heavier/deeper scratches which do not disappear when you wipe with water, you will NOT be able to just “polish out” the scratch. Two options exist for diy home repair and which you choose will depend on what you are trying to achieve. If you just want to protect the car body from rusting and get a superficial fix (I.e looks o.k from 10 feet/3m away). Then you can carefully try and fill-in the scratch with paint and polish back the excess until level (it will take several cycles of painting and polishing back). Try and protect original car paint by using tape either side of scratch, the closer to the scratch the better, ideally 1/4 inch (5mm) or less. Also make sure you use a sanding block, you are trying to flatten so paint is perfectly level. Once the scratch is levelled-off you protect with hard wax polish. Trying to finish off with a clear-coat layer is tricky because you are looking for a level finish and knowing when to switch from another coat of paint to a final layer of clear-coat is tricky. Please note, no matter how patient and skilled you are, do not expect a “perfect” undetectable finish, just a “protective repair”.
5. For deep scratches an alternative/better technique involves removing or filling the scratch and spray painting rather than touch-up brushes and there are plenty of guides available (including filling, priming, etc) but best learnt on older cars.The advantage is “invisible” repairs are possible, the disadvantage is that it takes practice/experience and skill and for d.i.y usually risks making things a whole lot worse.
Good luck

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by oakey46

From experience with my X1, I agree with what you say about the paint finish on plastic body parts.
Overall I would go so far as to say this car has probably the thinnest paint of any car I’ve owned before and it will make me think twice about buying another BMW. I haven’t experienced so many small stone chips on the bonnet/hood of any other car. Also, whilst I have a touch-in kit, I cannot find a Med Blue (code C10) spray paint kit anywhere.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362101727...&ul_noapp=true

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MEDIT...dnkZQaunCWM7rA

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-2-SER...BYoKvlRe20Tgqw

[Beagler]

Use soapy water with the 400’s to prevent clogging and further damage to the paint. Give it a go and if it goes pear shape you can always get it repaired professionally but nothing ventured etc.

[oakey46]

Originally Posted by MJE60

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362101727...&ul_noapp=true

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MEDIT...dnkZQaunCWM7rA

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-2-SER...BYoKvlRe20Tgqw

Thanks. I had looked on eBay before, but obviously missed those. Probably an age thing !!

[pand]

Resurrecting this thread, a proud new owner of a Nov' 15 F48 in Atlantic Grey. Have driven around 500 miles in it since getting the car on a mixture of roads. I am shocked at seemingly how easy the car's paintwork marks. Things just 'appear'. Is my life now going to revolve around reaching for a bottle and attending T-Cut Anonymous meetings? I've got a scuff on the driver's door, I've got marks on the passenger's door (I can only assume from a hedge going down a country lane) and even some marks on the lip of the boot (tailgate to anyone in North America reading).

Are all modern cars and their eco-friendly water-based paints quite so delicate?

The way it's going on, the thing will need an entire re-spray as part of it's annual service. :-/

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by pand

Resurrecting this thread, a proud new owner of a Nov' 15 F48 in Atlantic Grey. Have driven around 500 miles in it since getting the car on a mixture of roads. I am shocked at seemingly how easy the car's paintwork marks. Things just 'appear'. Is my life now going to revolve around reaching for a bottle and attending T-Cut Anonymous meetings? I've got a scuff on the driver's door, I've got marks on the passenger's door (I can only assume from a hedge going down a country lane) and even some marks on the lip of the boot (tailgate to anyone in North America reading).

Are all modern cars and their eco-friendly water-based paints quite so delicate?

The way it's going on, the thing will need an entire re-spray as part of it's annual service. :-/

Sorry to read about your paintwork issues. As I have previously said , the paintwork on my X1 is the thinnest I have ever known on a car but I have not found it to be excessively susceptible to marking and I have the same colour as you. I do however think that modern “eco” paint is not as tough.
I did give my car a ceramic coating (repeat every year) and regularly cover in high quality wax polish, perhaps this might help for you also.

[oakey46]

For minor surface marks I have found that using (in the UK) Autoglym Super Resin polish, which you can buy in many of the major motorist stores, and follow the instructions for application will give a decent finish. It is very mildly abrasive, but not so obvious that it takes all the paint away.
I do agree with MJE60 that the paint on the X1 is thinner than anything I've had on any previous car. Probably all in the drive to minimise costs and maximise profits, which is no doubt why BMW is one of the world's most profitable car manufacturers!

[ttimbo]

I agree that BMW's paint seems pretty thin these days — much thinner than my wife's Golf, for example.

That said, I'm another convert to one of the easy-to-apply ceramic coatings, and do this about every nine months. I use Mothers CMX after a decontamination wash and clay bar. Seems to work...but that may be the placebo effect of the process 😉

[txrxcha]

Have numerous experience with touch up pens & rock scratches / dents. You may have better luck starting from scratch here an applying layer by layer. Then wet sand 2000 grit - 3000 grit. Hit it with a polish and it should be close to original if you take your time. Make sure to wait a while after the pens drying time before sanding.