03-10-2011, 11:27 PM | #1 |
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Hey!
I've been wrapping a Lexus IS250 set for a member on this board and they've aksed me to start a build thread, so here are the pictures so far: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
03-11-2011, 12:27 PM | #4 |
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ugh these carbon wrapping threads are lame especially when the weave isn't even perfectly aligned
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03-11-2011, 12:48 PM | #6 | |
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Apparently, it's good enough for BMW as I have the two largest BMW dealerships in the Toronto area offering my services to their new car clients after seeing my finished parts in person as well as a number of BMW Indy shops!!! |
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03-12-2011, 02:05 PM | #7 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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03-12-2011, 06:27 PM | #8 |
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03-12-2011, 11:45 PM | #10 |
More of this than that!
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Nice work!
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03-13-2011, 08:18 PM | #11 | |
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1. You need to select a good resin that is ultra clear, has a long pot and working time (to give time to wrap properly). I use West Systems products. 2. you need to prep part surface with a silicone and wax remover, then sand (80 - 120 grit dry) to roughen up the surface. I then paint with black primer to help with adhesion and to ensure none of the base material will show through weave. 3. Size and cut the CF cloth before mixing resin and hardener. I use a very thin strip of blue painters tape around entire piece of cloth to keep weave intact before applying (which I cut away after cloth is layed, but before it's cured.) 4. make sure to apply resin in very thin coats. The goal is to fill-in low areas, not build-up on high spots. I use a special resin roller to roll the resin into fabric after applying and a similar roller cut into 1/4s to remove excess resin after each coat.... repeat 4-5 times till part is essentially flat and you can't see ripples in resin. 5. Wet sand; 220, 400 + 800 making sure to change water and rags when changing grits. 6. Clear coat. I personally use a BASF 3-part clear coat that I spray using a DeVilbiss GFG-670 gravity feed gun running @ around 35psi @ base. The real "trick" is the laying of the fabric. Unfortunately, other than watching a ton of videos and alot of practice, the rest is experience. I'm wrapping some 40 -50 pieces/week now. I'd say it took 300 or so pieces to really get a handle on the wrapping.... to where it is today; and I'm still constantly experimenting with new products and techniques to refine the process and "make it perfect". Hope this helps. Check out this video; it's the one I watched about 20 times before attempting anything: It gave the basic understanding. If you go to West Systems, they also have a bunch of tutorials (although their focus is on fibreglass which acts quite differently than CF, but the process is the same).... Good luck! |
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03-14-2011, 04:45 AM | #13 |
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Wish you were closer OP! You're doing fantastic work.
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03-21-2011, 06:35 PM | #14 | |
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![]() Thanks, but no where is too far these days. I have a Mercedes C63 AMG set on route from Indonnesia and just shipped a e46 interior to Sydney, Aus and currently working on a e46 coupe set from the UK. Just shipping charges..... ![]() |
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03-25-2011, 11:10 PM | #15 |
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Got the trims back, took the time to look at the fine details, the parts looks stunning from FAR away. All the areas that should be left OEM color has been ruined, cut outs are rough and some areas don't have enough clear coat. Bill's service was good and kept me up to date on progress, but I'm not too happy with the work that's been done. I can't sell it to others as well.
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03-26-2011, 06:21 AM | #16 |
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I've offered to address his concerns regarding the inner switch areas, the paint has orange peeled where I had to repaint the little areas inside the switch areas. Peter has not contacted me to address the issues (which I would); instead chooses to post the pictures and complain publicly.
Those of you that have dealt with me know I would address all Peter's converns, but he declined to have me fix the issues and instead posts this ....... Thanks..... The OEM sections have not been ruined, the paint had a reaction with the OE paint and formed orange peel as it's known. It's easily correctable, but requires a re-paint of those areas; that's it.... so Peter the ball is in your court. You have my contact info if you want me to fix the issue rather than crying publicly. |
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03-26-2011, 04:34 PM | #17 |
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Nachos just wondering why you delivered the parts to your client in that state, as you said it's easily fixable, so why didn't you do it? Sloppy work, you only have yourself to blame.
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03-26-2011, 11:59 PM | #19 |
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The painted pieces did not have any orange peel when I left my place or I would not have headed out. Not sure if the cold (it was very cold that evening and the parts were freshly painted) caused the peel to form as I was driving over, as I was as surprised to see them when I arrived as he was. I had taken pictures of the finished pieces (posted above) just after painting and they looked great.... By the time I got to his house (about 45 mins later) the peeling had started.... I offered to take the parts back with me and repair as I was quite embarrased to see that as well. He said he would see how they looked the next day, possibly give them a quick buff (they didn;t look that bad when I dropped them off) and would let me know if there was an issue. He then paid me in full and that's the last I heard from hom until he posted the response here..... I should have followed up and/or just taken the parts back with me without giving him the option...... But the parts honestly didn't have hardly any peel on them when delivered.... The peel must have gotten worse as the paint dried further...... just why not call me and tell me so I could have gone over and fixed the paint issue. That's what I don't understand. Those that know me; know I'd never knowingly deliver a part like that. I pride myself on my workmanship; my reputation is based on it.... This is not how I'd like to be conversing in my own threads; defending myself...... I would have addressed the situation immediately had I known they had gotten like that...
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