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      04-28-2017, 03:54 PM   #353
NOGRP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Egeira View Post

4. Ticking/knocking noise from engine when warmed up. The engine is noisy as it is but when this appeared around 50 000 km I lost faith in this car. The dealer listened and basically said, lets start with the timing chain tensioner (200€) and see if it fixes it. During the disassemble they said the old one was loose and later that the noise was gone. I picked it up and the noise was still there. Their next bet is the fan belt (150€) because apparently it was a bit damaged. I have my doubts. I have infinite money right, so lets try this as well! It sounds like classic valve adjustment but since this is Valvetronic this should not happen so it has to be something else. Any ideas? Here's a sound clip.
I have a same issue like Egeira has. I checked the link and it sounds exactly like mine. My car has 55.000 km. Any idea what it can be?
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      04-28-2017, 04:41 PM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOGRP View Post
I have a same issue like Egeira has. I checked the link and it sounds exactly like mine. My car has 55.000 km. Any idea what it can be?
Have you seen this: http://f20.1addicts.com/forums/showt...1#post21520881 ?
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      04-29-2017, 04:48 PM   #355
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Originally Posted by No one View Post
Thank you, I will check it.
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      07-14-2017, 12:11 PM   #356
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im having a problems with my wipers, its a 2012 120d, could really use some help.

i will pull the wiper stalk towards me and will get a nice jet of water on my windscreen however my wipers will not come on until i manually flick down or up. any ideas on a simple fix for this? got it booked in at BMW, but they cant see me till end of september. car is still under warranty though.
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      07-20-2017, 10:16 AM   #357
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I drive a 2014 M135i for 54000km and now the paddle shifter showed a problem. Sometimes if I switch to manual mode and click the "-" paddle for down shift, it'll either not response or up shift. Using the gear selector to shift manually is fine, problem only occurs when down shifting with paddle. Pretty strange i'll say, anyone ever experienced similar problems?
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      07-21-2017, 04:06 PM   #358
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I have only 2 issues that makes me mad

tailgate creaks
rear breaks grind at low speed
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      08-03-2017, 12:12 AM   #359
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need help can anybody help me get an intake and exhaust system for a 118d 2014 model
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      08-03-2017, 10:28 AM   #360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes1202 View Post
need help can anybody help me get an intake and exhaust system for a 118d 2014 model
I guess they should be able to source both air intakes and exhaust systems at your local BMW dealer?
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      08-03-2017, 04:48 PM   #361
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Hi anyone here knows about Esys coding?
I have a problem with a 2013 F20 116D, can´t read some of the CAF files
Can anyone help?

View post on imgur.com
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      10-21-2017, 06:25 AM   #362
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Hi guys,

I have 116 petrol 2012 with 30000 Miles on The clock.
I just have noticed that I’m losing engine coolant.
In last month I had to top up 3 times.
I don’t see any leaks. I also have replaced the radiator cap but still the same.
That’s any one of you had similar problem.
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      10-21-2017, 01:32 PM   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawelspolnicki View Post
Hi guys,

I have 116 petrol 2012 with 30000 Miles on The clock.
I just have noticed that I’m losing engine coolant.
In last month I had to top up 3 times.
I don’t see any leaks. I also have replaced the radiator cap but still the same.
That’s any one of you had similar problem.
Hi,

Reportedly, most frequent, least noticeable and easiest/cheapest to fix leak source is this thing: coolant temperature sensor. More specifically, it's the sealing o-ring (green)



to be replaced, not even the sensor itself.
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      05-31-2018, 02:36 AM   #364
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Loud engine ticking/hammering noise

Hi everyone,

As this is my first time posting on any threads or forums, I hope I am posting in the right place! Apologies if not.

I was driving home yesterday onto the motorway accelerating up to the speed limit. Next thing I know, my engine starts making this loud hammering sound at idle and when accelerating. I'm not sure exactly what has caused this and I intend taking it to a BMW garage ASAP. Just wondering if anyone might know what the cause is? I thought it might be the timing chain but I've honestly no idea. Thanks in advance!

Here's a short video of the sound

https://youtu.be/MeL1qQ6OxCw
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      05-31-2018, 02:55 AM   #365
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I don't think this is timing chain related. Sounds more like a leaking spark plug or something like that.
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      05-31-2018, 04:21 AM   #366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovekvam View Post
I don't think this is timing chain related. Sounds more like a leaking spark plug or something like that.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly, appreciate your time. Yeah so you reckon the chain isn't causing that sound? As far as I know the timing chains should really last a lifetime, but after some research I've come across a lot of people having trouble with the timing chain on BMW's so just figured perhaps that might be the case. It's currently getting toed to the garage for them to have a look at it. Hopefully it won't be an expensive fix!!
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      08-22-2018, 07:01 AM   #367
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Oil leak from returning pipe

I had an oil leak from the returning pipe from the turbo at 107000km, it was an O-ring fault, 10$ fix.
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      08-23-2018, 10:26 AM   #368
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I have done more than 32.000 km with my M140i in 18 months, and have no issue at all. To be honest, after 4/5 months, I had a loud "clack" that came out from the rear window zone often (maybe on a bumpy road), I have removed everything, every plastic, every connector, but nothing, the clack was always there. Then, after two or three months, it disappered its own. Now it is one year that my car goes really, really well, I'm fully satisfied of it today. yeah sometimes the brakes whistle...but it's a minor issue, or better, is not an issue at all.
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      07-31-2020, 05:02 PM   #369
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F20 116i, owned for allmost 1 year, been good up to lately for when i started to get a rattling diesel kind of sound when i accelerate and engine brake, its only during load on the car and i've started to get the Drivetrain warning triangle on the display.

1.Took the car to a dealer, found out it ran on 3 to 4 cylinders, one bad coil and 4 sparkplugs that i got replaced, car ran much better, but didnt fix the rattling noise.

2. Took the car back to the dealer since i picked it up as they were closing, rattling sound intensified abit more, strangely enough the they now found out the engine was missing oil (filled allmost 3L) which i assumed fixed solve the rattle noise, but no oil leak afaik checking the areas where i've parked and no oil under the engine.

3. Got the same drivetrain warning triangle, turned off AC and sound volume to listen to the engine if it got the same rattle. It was, but in a much less significant manner. Anyone have got any experience on this? At this point i might aswell get my own diagnostics equipment for later use.

Ps. Original engine spec with no chiptuning.
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      07-31-2020, 07:06 PM   #370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EspenSS94 View Post
F20 116i, owned for allmost 1 year, been good up to lately for when i started to get a rattling diesel kind of sound when i accelerate and engine brake, its only during load on the car and i've started to get the Drivetrain warning triangle on the display.

1.Took the car to a dealer, found out it ran on 3 to 4 cylinders, one bad coil and 4 sparkplugs that i got replaced, car ran much better, but didnt fix the rattling noise.

2. Took the car back to the dealer since i picked it up as they were closing, rattling sound intensified abit more, strangely enough the they now found out the engine was missing oil (filled allmost 3L) which i assumed fixed solve the rattle noise, but no oil leak afaik checking the areas where i've parked and no oil under the engine.

3. Got the same drivetrain warning triangle, turned off AC and sound volume to listen to the engine if it got the same rattle. It was, but in a much less significant manner. Anyone have got any experience on this? At this point i might aswell get my own diagnostics equipment for later use.

Ps. Original engine spec with no chiptuning.
3 litres of oil added? Do you know there's 4.2 litres of dry capacity and 1 litre lack allowance? (Do you even know you should watch the oil level?) With more than 1 litre absent you must have got an error "Add 1 litre of oil immediately!" (and, unless your car is 2012 lacking the oil level measuring function yet, "Add 1 litre of oil within the next 200 km." warning when about 1 litre is missing).

Regarding rattling (I don't know about "diesel kind"), here you are: https://f20.1addicts.com/forums/show...1&post23710421. Regarding the coil replacement, I would replace them all at once, not just one: they can be, reportedly, a source of "floating" error hard to detect sometimes.

Last edited by No one; 07-31-2020 at 07:27 PM.. Reason: Reverted an unnecessary clarification.
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      08-25-2020, 09:51 PM   #371
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I've bought my 2013 116i on May 2018 and since then, I can't use my USB port to charge my phone or do anything with a phone. I have NBT and USB plays videos perfectly, that's how I know that USB port is not broken. But when I try to connect my iPhone with the USB, then it goes crazy and connects-disconnects-connects-disconnects... It's like I have a bad cable but I don't and I've tried with more than 5 cables. Same result each time.

Probably have a problem with the strength of current but idk.

Have anyone else had this problem? Or anyone knows how to fix it?

( This happens:
)

Last edited by canuzi; 08-25-2020 at 10:15 PM.. Reason: Link added.
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      08-26-2020, 11:58 AM   #372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canuzi View Post
I've bought my 2013 116i on May 2018 and since then, I can't use my USB port to charge my phone or do anything with a phone. I have NBT and USB plays videos perfectly, that's how I know that USB port is not broken. But when I try to connect my iPhone with the USB, then it goes crazy and connects-disconnects-connects-disconnects... It's like I have a bad cable but I don't and I've tried with more than 5 cables. Same result each time.

Probably have a problem with the strength of current but idk.

Have anyone else had this problem? Or anyone knows how to fix it?
There are a couple of threads here you might find useful:
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      03-26-2021, 05:55 PM   #373
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Question F20 M140i Coolant loss

Low coolant light came on and on checking the larger of the two expansion tanks had to add 800cc to bring level up to Max. Over the course of two weeks had to continue adding coolant with no obvious sign of leaks. Oil cap has no sign of emulsion ie. water contamination. After adding almost 2000cc to maintain level put car into BMW who did a pressure test and checked all over for any sign of leak with good test and no leaks observed. BMW topped up to 200cc above Max level and all appeared good. BMW had no answer as to why I kept having to top up. Having check level every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks thought everything was OK. Then 3 days ago the low warning light came on and required 800cc to top up. The car has consumed 3000cc of coolant having driven 1135 mls. I know this is not normal but BMW had no answer other than the pressure test was OK.
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      03-26-2021, 09:09 PM   #374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinFraser60 View Post
Low coolant light came on and on checking the larger of the two expansion tanks had to add 800cc to bring level up to Max. Over the course of two weeks had to continue adding coolant with no obvious sign of leaks. Oil cap has no sign of emulsion ie. water contamination. After adding almost 2000cc to maintain level put car into BMW who did a pressure test and checked all over for any sign of leak with good test and no leaks observed. BMW topped up to 200cc above Max level and all appeared good. BMW had no answer as to why I kept having to top up. Having check level every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks thought everything was OK. Then 3 days ago the low warning light came on and required 800cc to top up. The car has consumed 3000cc of coolant having driven 1135 mls. I know this is not normal but BMW had no answer other than the pressure test was OK.
It should be the tank cap then (the part they had replaced when pressure testing, I presume).
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