BMW 1-Series Forum (F20) 135i - 1Addicts.com > Second Generation 1 Series Forum > 2012 BMW 1-Series Sporthatch (F20) Discussion > ATE Ceramic pads and Zimmermann drilled discs
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      05-31-2020, 05:53 AM   #23
ovekvam
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Our previous 2012 116i M-Sport had brake cooling ducts in the front bumper, but there aren't any in our 2016 118i LCI M-Sport.

As for the bigger rotors, I think you can reuse the calipers with different brackets. It would however mess up the brake balance, and could cause longer braking distance.
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      05-31-2020, 10:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Setright View Post
Du kan ikke bare skifte skive størrelse, hold dig til original så du ved det passer. Større skiver vil kræve nye kaliper og måske nav.
Fair nok, så kører jeg standard størrelse
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      06-22-2020, 06:34 AM   #25
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Update

These pads, as expected and stated by ATE are NOT suitable for trackdays.

I have tried, so YOU don't have to. They quickly overheat and the pedal gets soft. NO, not a fluid issue, it's because the ceramic material starts to wear out VERY quickly. The pedal travels as the material turns to dust.

They have recovered well, after a few hundred kilometers of regular driving.
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      06-23-2020, 12:59 AM   #26
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That happens to most street pads. The outer layer gets soft and slippery from the heat. Until it is worn off, the brake pedal travel is long.
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      07-29-2020, 12:31 PM   #27
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Phew! Got the new discs (ATE OEM) and pads (ATE Ceramics) installed a week ago, it took me two days, well... it took me one day to get one corner done, due to this little issue:
View post on imgur.com


Yeah, the small set screw was so corroded and stuck that it rounded completely, I went back and forth on what to do, but ended up drilling it out, first the head to get the disc off and then from 2mm to 6mm, very careful not to hit the threads on the hub. Anyways, it only took me half a day to get the rest of the corners done, this was mainly due to my torque wrench being just that bit too long, so it was a hassle getting the 110Nm bolts torqued correctly.

I have not "bedded" them in, as I was told just to drive as I normally would without any crazy emergency breaking the first 300km.
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      07-29-2020, 02:07 PM   #28
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110Nm bolts? Do you mean the wheel bolts? They should have 140Nm.
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      07-29-2020, 02:28 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovekvam View Post
110Nm bolts? Do you mean the wheel bolts? They should have 140Nm.
Nope, the "Brake anchor plate to swivel bearing" from here: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rakes/GfqyNpyB
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      07-30-2020, 02:25 AM   #30
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Glad you got it all done!

I always use ceramic paste (Bardahl) on bolts like those, stops them seizing up next time. Also, don't tighten them too hard. Just with a "firm hand". They are only there to hold the disc when the wheel is off - the wheel bolts do the real work.

The less abrasive nature of the ceramic pads means breaking-in takes longer. Wait between 500 and 1000km before trying to bed-in. Just 5-6 hard stops and then drive to cool it all down again.
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      07-30-2020, 02:34 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Setright View Post
Glad you got it all done!

I always use ceramic paste (Bardahl) on bolts like those, stops them seizing up next time. Also, don't tighten them too hard. Just with a "firm hand". They are only there to hold the disc when the wheel is off - the wheel bolts do the real work.

The less abrasive nature of the ceramic pads means breaking-in takes longer. Wait between 500 and 1000km before trying to bed-in. Just 5-6 hard stops and then drive to cool it all down again.
Yeah, I gave them ceramic paste as well, and only tightened them by hand this time! They were no doubt tightened by machine last time, as the hex had marks from overtightening.

I will keep in mind when I need to bed them, but they seem to work great already, no squeeking.

EDIT: Is this the stuff you are using? https://www.danskautoudstyr.dk/shop/...isk-alupasta-/

Last edited by jacobtc; 07-30-2020 at 02:41 AM..
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      07-30-2020, 02:44 AM   #32
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Yes sir :-)

I use it on most bolts. Just a little on the threads. It stops rust, but doesn't lubricate so much that bolt torque is messed up.
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      07-30-2020, 02:45 AM   #33
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I know this is a little late: Did you clean the hub (nav) well, before fitting the new discs?
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      07-30-2020, 03:05 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Setright View Post
I know this is a little late: Did you clean the hub (nav) well, before fitting the new discs?
Yes I did, used a steel brush and brake cleaner to ensure that it was as clean as possible before fitting the new discs
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      07-30-2020, 03:10 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Setright View Post
Yes sir :-)

I use it on most bolts. Just a little on the threads. It stops rust, but doesn't lubricate so much that bolt torque is messed up.
BMW says not to lubricate the bolts, so I only lubricated the one holding the disc in place. I hope I will be able to get the other bolts off again, once I need to do that in the future.
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      07-30-2020, 03:14 AM   #36
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Cool

I also use Bardahl Silicone. On the slider pins. ATE say to clean them and not use grease...

I get them clean with green "Scotchbrite" and wipe them off with brake cleaner. Then I smear them in silicone, but wipe it off with a clean cloth. That way they are super slippery, but don't have a layer of grease!

Works for me

Ceramic paste on the saddle and ears of the pads.
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      07-30-2020, 03:20 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Setright View Post
Cool

I also use Bardahl Silicone. On the slider pins. ATE say to clean them and not use grease...

I get them clean with green "Scotchbrite" and wipe them off with brake cleaner. Then I smear them in silicone, but wipe it off with a clean cloth. That way they are super slippery, but don't have a layer of grease!

Works for me

Ceramic paste on the saddle and ears of the pads.
I didn't lubricate the slider pins, but kept them clean, and just reused the grease already on there. The hubs wasn't really that bad, so brake cleaner did most of the work, the steel brush was used mostly on the inside of the brackets that hold the pads.

Yep, I gave the pads a thin layer of paste where they contact the brackets.

Oh yeah, and I had to loosen the handbrake through the wheel bolt hole, before I could get the back discs off, didn't see that mentioned in any guides or videos found :O I then had to adjust the handbrake again, however I have difficulties getting it done to my liking. I lift one back corner off, take of the wheel, and adjust while the handbrake is off. I get it so that the hub won't rotate after three clicks on the handbrake, put on the wheel and do the same on the other side. When I am done, it seems like the handbrake is much looser than when the car was lifted... How would I go about adjusting it correctly?
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      07-30-2020, 05:20 AM   #38
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I do the same...and the exact same result as you jacob

The handbrake design is weird, mine also tends to hang if the car is parked up hill. When I release the handle, the brake shoes don't release, and the car doesn't roll bacwards. If I drive forward just a centimeter, they release...



I like this old german mechanic, he knows what he is talking about !

https://youtu.be/OZD6mprPC1w
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      07-30-2020, 06:56 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Setright View Post
I do the same...and the exact same result as you jacob

The handbrake design is weird, mine also tends to hang if the car is parked up hill. When I release the handle, the brake shoes don't release, and the car doesn't roll bacwards. If I drive forward just a centimeter, they release...



I like this old german mechanic, he knows what he is talking about !

That is exactly the same video I followed, however the result is lackluster. Have you had any success getting the handbrake a bit better? I fear mine wont hold the car on a steep hill at the moment
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      07-30-2020, 08:56 AM   #40
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My handle usually clicks 4 times to hold the car on level or not so steep ground.

6-7 is the maximum I can pull it.

I have used that on steep hills and ferries, no problem.

But I share your "fear" :-)

I plan to tighten my adjusters a little bit. It's a balance, if you tighten too much, they drag and cause vibrations...
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      07-30-2020, 11:42 AM   #41
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Steep hills in Denmark? :-)

Leaving the car in first gear or reverse helps a lot as well.
When I had an old Volvo 244, I used to turn a front wheel against the kerb when parking on hills.
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      07-30-2020, 01:57 PM   #42
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Steep...we didn't say long and steep


By the way Ove, writing this from a windy Skagerak on the way home after a week in Norway.

Been up in Gudbrandsdalen
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