BMW 1-Series Forum (F20) 135i - 1Addicts.com > Second Generation 1 Series Forum > 2012 BMW 1-Series Sporthatch (F20) Discussion > Anyone driftied stock M135i?
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      04-18-2013, 04:25 AM   #1
westphone
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Anyone driftied stock M135i?

Friends I am in shame. I couldn't drift the M135i in the rain. I used Scandinavian flick + power, but the car just snaps away quickly instead being well predictable like a GO KART (ok not really a fair comparison.) I tried in the rain because I thought I could achieve the same thing as in the dry with lower speed and less destruction to the tires.

I've seen the YouTube clip Test It and found it is possible. The driver is awesome, and I was hoping to do something similar.

I am just wondering has anyone drifted successfully drifted the M135i?

Thanks and cheers,

Charles
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      04-18-2013, 05:42 AM   #2
ovekvam
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Did you remember to switch off DSC completely?
A Scandinavian flick is enough to start a slide if you do it correctly, and you can also start it by applying too much power while cornering. Both at the same time is not really applicable, as the Scandinavian flick involves braking.

It is possible (but very difficult) to do drifting in the wet with a 116i, so it should be rather easy with an M135i.
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      04-18-2013, 07:10 AM   #3
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Thanks ovekvam, yes DSC is off. I'll try without the flick next time it rains
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      04-18-2013, 09:29 AM   #4
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It's easy to do, although I have to say that the e-diff makes it less progressive compared to say a M3. It comes on more suddenly IMO and harder to catch as a result. Best way to do it is go slow in the wet, select 2nd gear, then give it a boot full. Now the boot full is where you need some practice as too much would cause it to spin around too quick and you will need good skills and abilit to catch it. Once the car starts turning in the other direction, don't forget to counter steer!
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      04-18-2013, 09:53 AM   #5
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For controlling a power slide, you can play with the throttle and steering like this:

- To go more sideways: Steer into the corner, more throttle.
- To go less sideways: Counter steer, less throttle.
- To tighten the line: Steer into the corner, less throttle.
- To widen the line: Counter steer, more throttle.

You need to continously regulate between these four modes to keep it going where you want to go.
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      04-18-2013, 09:53 AM   #6
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Rain + 118D + 'sport+' = good powerslide
So it should be possible with the M135i!
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      04-18-2013, 10:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregD View Post
Rain + 118D + 'sport+' = good powerslide
So it should be possible with the M135i!
But you can't really do drifting in Sport+. The stability control keeps interfering, and bogs down the engine too much. Some short time powersliding is possible, but the system will resist you and wants to straighten the car.

Here is some footage of me driving on ice with DTC off:
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      04-18-2013, 12:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovekvam View Post
But you can't really do drifting in Sport+. The stability control keeps interfering, and bogs down the engine too much. Some short time powersliding is possible, but the system will resist you and wants to straighten the car.
True, I wasn't refering to continiously drifting. DTC kicks the car back on track quickly.
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      04-18-2013, 03:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovekvam View Post
Did you remember to switch off DSC completely?
A Scandinavian flick is enough to start a slide if you do it correctly, and you can also start it by applying too much power while cornering. Both at the same time is not really applicable, as the Scandinavian flick involves braking.

It is possible (but very difficult) to do drifting in the wet with a 116i, so it should be rather easy with an M135i.
i can vouch for that, drifting in the 116i with DSC off is possible, even without wet conditions
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      04-18-2013, 04:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iBeech View Post
i can vouch for that, drifting in the 116i with DSC off is possible, even without wet conditions
I tried with my non run flats in dry conditions, but I could not keep it going. When I made corrections by lifting the throttle, I had lost turbo pressure when going back on the pedal, and my tires stopped spinning. If it had been possible to run Sport throttle respons with DSC Off, it would have been easier.
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      04-18-2013, 04:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovekvam
Quote:
Originally Posted by iBeech View Post
i can vouch for that, drifting in the 116i with DSC off is possible, even without wet conditions
I tried with my non run flats in dry conditions, but I could not keep it going. When I made corrections by lifting the throttle, I had lost turbo pressure when going back on the pedal, and my tires stopped spinning. If it had been possible to run Sport throttle respons with DSC Off, it would have been easier.
Sort press of dsc, or long press?
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      04-18-2013, 04:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iBeech View Post
Sort press of dsc, or long press?
Long press to get DSC Off. A short press gives you DTC mode, where stability control is still active. Not good for drifting.
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      04-18-2013, 07:47 PM   #13
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Thanks guys the DSC button was given a good long press until the "DSC OFF" showed up in the dash. Looks like I've just gotta try it some more. Nice footage ovekvam
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      04-20-2013, 09:20 AM   #14
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I tried the same in the rain, didnt work for me as well
just couldnt get the car to stay sideways
might take some getting used to but there isnt any large open space to practice here
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      01-17-2018, 02:04 PM   #15
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1er is harder to drift as it has shorter wheel base especially drifting without LSD makes it more difficult to predict the car's behavior. Learning curve takes longer as well. But it is entirely possible to drift.

I started to learn drifting with a 116d, it is also easy to drift in the wet. Keep practicing (in a right way though).
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      01-17-2018, 02:18 PM   #16
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If you want to do a lot of drifting, a real LSD is a good investment.
The wheelbase of the F20 is 2690 mm, which is not really short.

Some popular drift cars:
Nissan 200SX S14: 2525 mm.
Toyota GT86: 2570 mm.
Toyota Supra A80: 2550 mm.
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      01-26-2018, 01:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovekvam View Post
If you want to do a lot of drifting, a real LSD is a good investment.
The wheelbase of the F20 is 2690 mm, which is not really short.

Some popular drift cars:
Nissan 200SX S14: 2525 mm.
Toyota GT86: 2570 mm.
Toyota Supra A80: 2550 mm.
Probably did not express my thought in the right way. But I guess people who drifts will get what I really meant. I agree with the cars you mentioned as a popular drift car, but they all have one thing in common. You know it if you do drifting.

Cheers
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      01-31-2018, 01:06 AM   #18
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The e-diff is surprisingly good in the dry for drifting but work very poorly in the wet. I think it is due to the big difference in traction between the wheels in the wet resulting in the power being thrown around like it does. Holding a slide in say 3rd gear is NOT easy.
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      01-31-2018, 01:21 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harkes View Post
The e-diff is surprisingly good in the dry for drifting but work very poorly in the wet. I think it is due to the big difference in traction between the wheels in the wet resulting in the power being thrown around like it does. Holding a slide in say 3rd gear is NOT easy.
It is not as quick and smooth as a real limited slip differential. The turbo lag from the engine adds to the complexity, making it more difficult. A Quaife differential is a nice upgrade for those who do drifting regularly. The e-diff is more suited to driving fast on the limit, with unintentional slides. It makes it possible to put the foot down quite early in corners, and it takes care of the power on understeer by braking only the inside wheel. It could be sold as torque vectoring.
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      01-31-2018, 07:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovekvam View Post
It is not as quick and smooth as a real limited slip differential. The turbo lag from the engine adds to the complexity, making it more difficult. A Quaife differential is a nice upgrade for those who do drifting regularly. The e-diff is more suited to driving fast on the limit, with unintentional slides. It makes it possible to put the foot down quite early in corners, and it takes care of the power on understeer by braking only the inside wheel. It could be sold as torque vectoring.
I would be all over a torque style diff if I had more use for it. No doubt its way more effective than the e-diff. "Had more use" haha With 500hp/650nm I have plenty of use - the price is just rather steep.
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