02-24-2016, 11:15 AM | #1 |
Registered
1
Rep 3
Posts |
First Bimmer 120D Msport
Hi all,
I picked up my 1 series 120D M Sport Last night and i absolutely love it. I have decided to make a little bit of a progress thread, so i will add below as i make changes I plan to make some "Minor Changes", such as coding enhanced Bluetooth, upgraded speakers and sub, Gloss black kidney grills. Can anybody recommend any more tweaks that I could do. Thanks Last edited by kylecaliph; 04-03-2016 at 11:57 AM.. |
02-25-2016, 12:57 AM | #4 |
Registered
1
Rep 3
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-25-2016, 09:58 AM | #5 | |
Major
1040
Rep 1,341
Posts |
Quote:
Print out your wish list and attach it to the car: no offence, but it appears a bit strange you are looking for expansion before any completion. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-03-2016, 06:47 AM | #6 |
Registered
1
Rep 3
Posts |
Progress Update. Sub and amp install
Only getting around to making a couple of "essential" changes. The sound system in the 1er was far from okay. Not wanting to spend the money on the oem upgrade, I decided to install an amp and sub in the boot. It hasn't taken up much space at all and the sound is 100 times better.
I couldn't find that much information on the forum, so i thought i would share with everyone the process i followed in order to carry out the install. I know this has been done before, and it is a pretty straight forward install. I just wanted to share for people with basic skills, who were wanting to do the install. Summary. So firstly i tapped into the passenger side under seat sub-woofer. I had to un-bolt the seat and prop it up. (i did not remove any wiring from the seats. I read that this could mess with air bag, and it would need resetting by BMW) I ran speaker wire from the boot, through the car to the under seat sub woofer. I used the sills to hide the wire. As i did not want to splice and solder, i used the clips above, which i purchased off Amazon for £8. Using the clips i tapped into the + and - of the sub wiring. The clips are great because it gives a clean and more importantly secure finish. After having a read across all the forum's, a found that people who use a normal line out connector when doing this install, suffered from low bass. I opted for the LC2i console, which i purchased on the US Amazon site for half the price of what it would have cost me on UK Amazon. The LC2I has enabled me to adjust the base from the tapped connection and i have more than enough available. Once the speaker wire from the under seat sub was fed into the boot, i connected them directly into the LC2i. I then used + and - phono leads straight into the amp. I used the boot cigarette lighter as the remote feed to tell the amp to turn on. I wired this in to the LC2i remote in port. and then used the remote out port to pass this through to the amp. This turns off after a couple of minutes of locking the car door. For those that don't have a cigarette lighter in the boot, i've read that people are using the rear fuse box as a means of getting a live remote wire feed, as this all turns off a couple of minutes after the door is locked. After connecting the amp to the battery, and ground, and connecting the LC2i to the power and ground, i tidied up all the cables, put the sub in the boot and tested the system. Here is the finished install. I used industrial Velcro to stick the amp on the back of the seat. The sub is held on with string currently(temporary), until i find a more permanent solution. Again i know this has been done before, and it is pretty simple, but i thought id just share my process in case anybody needed the help. |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|