11-30-2012, 09:04 AM | #1 |
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new M135i arrived!!
Just received my M135i after 2 long months of patience!!
I will post some pictures very soon One question: when testing the sequential mode of the steptronic box, i accidentally went over 5'000 rpm (the - and + shifters are the opposite of my old GTI DSG...:S ), but only for a few seconds as i quickly shifted gears up... Could this damage this engine? The sales guy told me there was no need for a break-in period in new bmw's... Just hoping to get a better answer from experts. thanks for your help and will post pictures this weekend!
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11-30-2012, 09:11 AM | #2 |
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High RPM does not damage the engine, it simply adds more wear to it, particularly when the engine is cold. Since it didn't last long, there is nothing to worry about.
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11-30-2012, 10:41 AM | #3 |
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No need to worry about momentary high revs during break-in period. I would be more worried if you keep the engine at constant engine and road speeds all the time. It is even better to give the engine some mid to high rev pulls like from 4000 to 5000 and back and repeat again, do this at least a few times during the break-in period, it helps. Stay calm with the throttle when the engine is cold (depending on outside weather, first 5 to 10 minutes of driving), before or after break-in, doesn't matter. Finally, do not switch off the engine after a long drive or pushing it hard, wait for the turbo(or turbos) to cool down a bit either by waiting at idle a few minutes or better keeping your driving calm and smooth for the last few minutes of driving before you park it.
Most importantly always secondguess whatever your sales guy tells you, every engine needs some kind of break-in but it doesn't mean babying the car. Enjoy the car.
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BMW 1M-SOLD-: TECH: Evolve Race+N55mids, Evolve IC, Michelin PSS, ER cp, aFe filter, CDVx, Vorshlag camber plates, BMS OCC EXTERIOR: trunk spoiler, blacklines, black grills, IND goodies INTERIOR: Alcantara steering wheel, steel pedals, custom mats, MPower e-brake. |
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11-30-2012, 11:05 AM | #4 |
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In user manual they recommend still to do some running in for 2000km.
I do not remember if it was 4000 or 5000 rpm max as I do not have the manual at front of me but I suppose you can check. Above advices still apply |
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11-30-2012, 12:16 PM | #5 |
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Well from an engineers perspective (I'm sure many ppl on this forum will agree/disagree with me), when the car is cold, nothing is up to operating temperature, which means that everything is close to each other (contraction and expansion due to cold/hot). So that's one reason why you should never rev the engine really high when the car isn't at operating temp. Also, the materials in the engine will have very different mechanical properties at 5 degrees than at 60+ degrees centigrade... Elasticity, yield point all changes. Everything is designed with a factor of safety, usually around 2; but sometimes, the conditions are just right for a failure to happen or seriously damage the engine. No one wants to scratch the cylinders because they weren't patient enough for the car to warm up
And the car usually is broken in to eaven out any tiny (micrometers) imperfections in cylinders and other areas around the engine. This is done to ensure a perfect fit of piston with cylinder. Imagine the following scenario: You have a new car and you don't want to break it in. By some luck, it happens that your cylinders were just a bit too small and the piston rings are rubbing furiously against the walls. If you don't take it gentle, it'll scratch the cylinder walls and damage both the walls and piston rings. Piston rings are replaceable, cylinder walls, not so much. The same goes for all moving parts, bearings, pumps, compressors, etc. It's like wearing new leather shoes, it's a tight fit at first and then it just loosens up and fits perfectly. Hope that helps. I'm the kind to always break in my car, I don't want to create unnecessary damages because I wasn't patient. Just a few examples, I'm sure many ppl can come up with more or argue against what I said. I hope I got most of that right! Cheers!
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12-01-2012, 11:42 AM | #7 | |
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The BMW is the right way around though, all motorsport use pull to change up and push to change down on sequential levers. Vag do it the wrong way. Cheers Lee |
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12-01-2012, 05:27 PM | #9 |
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BMW engines are electrically spun to their red line after assembly. This is so that the engine can be tested before it goes into your car, so don't worry about it.
BMW engines are built extremely 'tight' so they need a bit of wear during the first 10,000 Km for the piston rings to bed properly into the bores. Keep the factory filled oil for the first year or 15,000 km. Driving at low engine revs and driving at steady speeds can cause more wear than varied speed and revs. You should vary the revs (even up to a higher rev) but try to keep the upper rev limit between 4,000 and 5,000 for the first 1,000 Km, and vary your revs if occasionally you over reach that limit it will be OK. After 1,000 Km, common sense dictates that you don't run at high revs (rev the nuts off) for prolonged periods, but you needn't be too worried about hitting 7,000 rpm occasionally during a short gear change. Autos are great as they have a electronic rev limiter. In a manual try never to rev past the rev limiter as misfires can damage catalytic converters. Don't change the oil and filter until the first manufacturer recommended change point, or the end of the first year. BMW have designed the oil for this purpose. After that, if you intend keeping the car for a long time, I recommend more frequent oil and filter changes than the manufacturers or their on-board service indicators suggest. It's also a good idea to have the transmission and diff oil changed after the first year to get rid of any heavy particles which could later be ground up into tiny particles which eventually get into the bearings and accelerate wear. I think BMW also do the GBox at the 15,000Km service I would also insist on a fully synthetic engine oil when the dealer does it during the warrantee period and after if you keep the car Hope this helps |
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12-02-2012, 06:57 AM | #13 |
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Fantastic. I really DO love the front with the black kidneys. I guess I'm the only one.
And are those wintertyres on the original wheels? Congrats. Cheers Robin |
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12-02-2012, 08:25 AM | #14 |
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Actually no they're the stock summer tyres (michelin sp) so i had to be extra careful as it was -2 this morning!! Im putting the winter tyres on tomorrow!
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12-02-2012, 08:28 AM | #15 | |
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Thank you! It's true most people prefer the original grille! It's my first bmw and it's just fantastic to drive, and i haven't REALLY driven it yet since i have only 200km on the odo... Can't wait to push it!
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12-02-2012, 12:49 PM | #16 | |
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I think any M135i's front looks just alright to begin with. Whether black or normal kidneys. Seriously. And just wait a few more kilometres Am I correct this is a rwd and not an X Drive? Cheers Robin |
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12-02-2012, 02:42 PM | #19 |
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Correct it's rwd...and winter is arriving quickly so i better fix these winter tyres soon!!
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12-03-2012, 12:38 AM | #20 |
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Congrats on the 135i
I see it has been debadged - and all black with coral trim. Is that so no one knows it is a 135i (the pipes give it away) or just so you can scare the hell out of any boy racer who tries it on when the roads get usable again. |
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12-03-2012, 04:11 AM | #22 |
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I don't mind the badging so much but I think it's a lot of text for such a compact car. In any case, once you hear the raucous noise of the exhaust, you can easily guess what's under the bonnet!
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